Route Database : North Face of Tour Ronde

Details

Country: Overseas
Region: Alps
Location: Mont Blanc Massif
Crag/Mountain: Tour Ronde
Route Name: North Face of Tour Ronde
Type: Alpine Climb
Grade: AD+/D-
Guidebook: Alpine Club Mont Blanc Volume 1
Climbers: Giles & John
Date Climbed: 2004-06-18
Author: Giles Thurston
Date Entered: 2005-01-15

Description:

Once you have climbed over the bergschrund at the base of the face, the route towers steeply above you. The lower 100m ice face leads into a narrow icy couloir (the narrows) where good rock belays can be found on the right.

You can exit the couloir towards the top on the right hand side over an ice bulge & out onto the final broad & exposed summit slopes.

You climb these to the ridge & the final summit block which can either be attempted directly (around severe UK standard) or turned on the left.

Average slope angle of 52 degrees. Guidebook time 7 hours.

Comments:

Author: Giles Thurston on 2005-01-15

Depending on your technique (and confidence) you can either pitch the entire route which can be very time consuming or move together on the upper & lower slopes, only pitching through the couloir. We chose the later or though some parties were seen doing the former. The choice is yours!

Although its a north face the upper slopes do catch the sun so an early start is advised.

Good acclimatisation is also useful, unlike when we did it - I have never been so knackered!

Additional Information on "Tour Ronde":

  • Check BMC for access information
  • Check UKClimbing for crag information
  • Check Google for information

Additional Information on "North Face of Tour Ronde":

  • Check Google for information

Disclaimer:

The route description and comments provided here are intended to complement and not replace the descriptions found in official guidebooks. You are therefore encouraged to read our full disclaimer before attempting this route.

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