Route Database : Voie Des Plaques (SW ridge)


Country: Overseas
Region: Alps
Location: Ecrin Park
Crag/Mountain: Tete de Rouget
Route Name: Voie Des Plaques (SW ridge)
Type: Alpine Climb
Grade: PD+
Guidebook: Ecrin Massif, Alpine Club; Ecrins Park, Robin Collomb
Climbers: P Hopwood, 'Swiss' Tony.
Date Climbed: 2001-07-18
Author: Paul Hopwood
Date Entered: 2005-01-15


A classic Climb on the s flank & sw ridge. It is an interesting & fairly exposed climb with no great dificulties on very good rock. Climb from the Soreiller hut to below Tete de Rouget & R to two breches at base of sw ridge. Climb left past the L-hand breche & work your way up to where the SW ridge becomes more defined. Keeping more to the right, climb large open diedre & smooth rock to an obvious small exposed ledge overlooking the south face. Continue up working L up smooth rock to another small ledge. Continue up to a sort of terrace & then on summit ridge to summit. Descend by same route or descend to the breche de rouget & down W via rock face close to the R bank of the couloir issuing from the breche. One rappel in lower section may be useful.


Author: Paul Hopwood on 2005-01-15

An excellent climb with no great difficulties, not too steep but very exposed. The SW ridge is actually slabby so it's not a true narrow ridge. We only pitch climbed from the exposed ledge to the terrace (2 pitches). On the first pitch there was one piton just above the belay & then no protection for a whole rope length. Because it's more of a slab climb, there were no rock spikes either. We got up in good time & hit the summit at the exact time the hut guardian said she expected us to summit. However, Being a british climber used to a nice easy walk off, we found the descent down the N ridge very scarey. Soft snow on top of loose crumbling rock. We did a couple of rappels down the W flank of the N ridge, but needed a double rope to reach the couloir. So ended up having to down climb the last bit. Then the west face was just as bad, scarey down climbing on rubble & soft snow, we were far too slow. I recommend taking two ropes for the descent unless your confident at descending.

Additional Information on "Tete de Rouget":

  • Check BMC for access information
  • Check UKClimbing for crag information
  • Check Google for information

Additional Information on "Voie Des Plaques (SW ridge)":

  • Check Google for information


The route description and comments provided here are intended to complement and not replace the descriptions found in official guidebooks. You are therefore encouraged to read our full disclaimer before attempting this route.


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