Route Database : Zeta


Country: Wales
Region: North Wales
Location: llanberis South
Crag/Mountain: Dinas Mot
Route Name: Zeta
Type: Rock Climb
Grade: Extremely Severe
Guidebook: New Climbs 68
Climbers: John Tooke & Tony Willmott
Date Climbed: 2006-01-01
Author: John Tooke
Date Entered: 2006-09-05


250ft.A direct line,delicate & poorly protected.
Starts 30ft.right of Direct Route,etc.,at a grassy ledge.
(1)50ft.Traverse left along quartzy ledges for 6ft.Climb into a book shaped corner & exit rightwards to a short,ragged crack.Straight up to the first stance on Diagonal.
(2)40ft.Climb up to the good nut runner on Diagonal,continue up & right slightly onto the next stance on Diagonal using a very small peg for aid (removed).
(3)60ft.Straight up the thin crack above the peg belay to a nut runner at 40ft.Straight up,not left,to a large stance.
(4)30ft.Easily up to stance & peg belay,a little left of the last stance of Diagonal.
(5)40ft.Move up & left onto an overhanging nose & climb this (2pegs for aid)


Author: John Tooke on 2006-09-05

I live in Australia now & after a recent visit to N.Wales i was disappointed to see (i may be mistaken)that my climb recorded in the climbers guide new climbs 68 has been renamed by someone else.I do this in memory of my good friend Tony Willmott.
Would love to hear from you.
Regards John Tooke.

Additional Information on "Dinas Mot":

  • Check BMC for access information
  • Check UKClimbing for crag information
  • Check Google for information

Additional Information on "Zeta":

  • Check Google for information


The route description and comments provided here are intended to complement and not replace the descriptions found in official guidebooks. You are therefore encouraged to read our full disclaimer before attempting this route.


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